Welcome, Bienvenue, Bievenidos

For friends and family that are curious what I'm up to I will try to keep up this site. The name refers to that which draws me into the mountains. Like any artist I use same medium as those before me in what I consider a unique and inspiring way.

I grew up in Southeast Alaska. My mom was an avid hiker and drug me everywhere with her. While I have always enjoyed the outdoors, I spent most of my youth in an indoor swimming pool. I found technical climbing when my shoulder crapped out and I had to quit swmming. I dicked around for a couple of years picking up a little experience here and there, but it wasn't until I went to Nepal to climb Pumori's SW Ridge in 2003.
Jacek Maselko, Stefan Ricci, Forest Wagner, Mitch something or other, Sky something or other, and I went over in the fall full expedition style. I was 20 and this was the first time I dropped out of school for climbing (I wish I hadn't gone back). We climbed Island peak and then launched a 5 week campaign on the ridge. We fixed lines, established camps, and in the end all I got was a t-shirt and new view of how to move in the mountains. Fixed lines are for tourists.

A few years later Stefan and I began training for the Cassin Ridge on Denali.
We planned for two days on the route. 51 hours after leaving the schrund we topped out in blue bird weather. The Cassin ridge is the best line I have ever been on. I had never trained harder for the mountains, or wanted anything more. Light and fast became less of a trendy catch phrase and more of problem. One that has become my sole inspiration. How do you move fast on difficult, technical, and relatively unknown terrain?

In March of 2008 Sam Magro and I went into the Mendenhall Towers with the help of the Mugs Stump Award. We went through some shitty weather but patience paid off and we did the first ascent of the North Face of West Tower. Dubbing our 800m route "The Great White Conqueror V A1, AI4, M5."
There is a moment in early in the morning where I've found myself high on snow covered ridge having just pulled over the top of a face or skinning to a fresh line. I am with a good friend and there is less ahead than there is behind and a new day is dawning. The air is filled with potential energy, who knows what the day has in store. This is my favorite moment in life, I reach an awareness that I have only found in the mountains with good friends. Thanks for paying me a visit. Peace

Ryan Johnson