There are at least 20 cars at the pullout for Fairview Dome. So we decide to wait until afternoon assuming anyone low on the route will have their act together... We were wrong. Four parties are in front of us and moving oh so slowly. Gabe is getting antsy, but I have a smile ear to ear. Sun, granite, hippies I could not be farther away from the dark hole of a mine that I work at on Prince of Whales Island. I love the Sierras. I love Yosemite. I love being smack dab in the middle of a climb. I love taking off my shoes at belays and wiggling my toes. I love the bright/bold colors of the adonized camalots hanging from harness. God I love climbing.
The next day we had our eyes on the 3rd pillar of the Dana Plateau. It is beautiful. I can't believe that we were even considering going to the soggy Stikine instead of coming here. Juneau, and all of Southeast, is experiencing one of the wettest Augusts in history and we are missing it! The Pillar is crowded, but that is to be expected. Gabe has never been to this part of the world before so we are out to tick classics. The final pitch excedes to our expectations as most of the true classics tend to.
After Dana headed out to Conness. Clouds were building all day. In the end we decided to bail. Neither of us are crazy about the idea of being stuck on a Grade V in a thunderstorm that far out. So we bail for Bishop. Everyone had made it sound like it was impossible to get a permit into the Whitney Cirque. It isn't... at all.
We took a rest day in Bishop. Gabe got some work done, after all he told his office simply that he was going to be unavaible for three weeks. Not that he wouldn't even be in the state. Our hope is to get a route on Russell and climb the Harding route on Keeler. We got an early start and hiked with all of our whole kit. After setting up camp we ran over and took a shot at Western Front on Russell.
Finally, we had a climb to ourselves. Both of us are feeling the altitude as we start up the route. It turns out 5.10 at nearly 14,000ft is actually pretty hard. The corner on Western Front is one of the best rock features I have climbed in the mountains. We topped out in the dark and hiked back to camp making it a 16 hour day. Keeler is out of the question, Gabe and I are totally worked. My next trip in I am going for several days and getting properly acclimated.
We head back to Tuolumne to tag Oz on Drug Dome before heading down to the Valley. The third pitch of Oz might very well be the best pitch of 5.10 in the park. It was oh so good.
We had originally wanted to climb the Steck/Salathe and Regular NW Face of Half Dome, but after a night around the campfire we decided to say screw it and jump on the Nose! Gabe had never aid climbed before so what could be better than a 30 pitch C1 to learn? How about a North facing 30 pitch C1? At the top of pitch 6 we had to bail. Temps were just shy of 100 degrees and that was just too much for the boys from Alaska. It was time to get back out the mountains.
Incredible does not even come close to describing the Hulk. I am in love. We ju,ped on Positive Vibrations and got our money's worth. It really is better than Astroman. I cannot imagine a better rock climb. I wasn't up to the challenge sadly. Gabe had to lead the upper crux. We fell, we rested, but we got up it. It seemed like we were going to have a smooth rap off then things went a bit haywire. At the bottom of the first rap the wind cracked the rope as I was taking out of my belay device and I got to watch as it shot out of my hands. Our rope had been chopped on and you need every inch of that 70m to rap Venturi effect it turns out. We ended up rapping most of the wall in the dark running around looking for rap anchors. It was a great adventure and a great climb. I will be back up there as soon as I can. That has to be one of the best pieces of granite on earth!
Well, I am waiting to get laid off and head down to the desert! 2-3 maybe three weeks! Hello Red Rock, Zion, and yeah you too Indian Creek I'll be seeing you shortly!
Good to the last drop. Up high on the Hulk.
The goodness never ends on the Hulk
Still positive on Positive Vibrations
1st crux on Positive Vibrations
Pitch 4 of Oz... I love the Sierras
Gabe getting the last bit of awesomeness on the 3rd pitch of Oz
Enjoyable climbing on the 1st pitch of Oz
Super fun climbing on Positive Vibrations
Sending the 3rd Pitch of Oz on Drug Dome, probably one of the best 5.10 pitches in the park
Resting on "the Wart" on Western Front, Mt. Russell
Hiking into Mt. Russell
Sending dreamy granite on top pitch of the 3rd pillar of Dana
Relaxing behind several other parties on the 3rd Pillar
2 comments:
Yo ryan, i was just around that Whitney zone a bit myself. that third pitch of Oz looks amazingly similar to the 2nd pitch of the west face on colchuck balanced rock. i am going to be in IC and Zion for the last ~10 days of oct, hope to run into you!
P.S. just thought you would get a kick out of this. the random word verification that i am having to type is "dognarr"
Hahaha Dognarr! I am coming down on Saturday to SLC, not sure where I am headed yet. I'll be down in the desert until early January. I'm working in Nevada 2 weeks on 2 weeks off.
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